Wednesday, March 31, 2010

africhic - my first online shopping experience

I got to work very late this morning and was greeted by lovely package from Africhic. My Missibaba bag is finally here and I love it! When I get home, I'm going to empty out my trusty black sling bag and start showing off my newest purchase.

Sent via my BlackBerry from Vodacom - let your email find you!

colleen eitzen, soda, terrence bray

Gees, I've had a week from hell. I think I am the happiest person in the world that tomorrow is the last day of my work-week and that I am going to have four days of relaxation, reading and general bumming around.

Last week Saturday, I rounded off my Fashion Week experience with the Colleen Eitzen, Soda and Terrence Bray show and what I lovely way to end the adventure as the collections were beautiful and somewhat erased the memory of the previous nights disappointments.
It was rather quiet when I arrived at the Turbine Hall at exactly 2pm, so I was quite worried that the show had started. Looking like a 'hot mess' because I had literally left my house without looking in a mirror I ran into my Fashion Weeking buddies chilling casually reminiscing about the past two days and what they expected to see on day 3 or rather which shows they were going to choose to see.

COLLEEN EITZEN
I have always been a big fan of Colleen Eitzen's wearable and feminine aesthetic and the collection she showed on Saturday easy and comfortable. Styled with comfy looking leather sandals and Converse sneakers Eitzen’s collection exemplified casual summer.

SODA
The most memorable element of the Soda collection was the tangerine orange and the colour block dress shown. Otherwise I was quite freaked out by the prints used, specifically the deer on the blouses and such.

TERRENCE BRAY
This collection took me on an elegant five star safari through Africa. With a copper to gold sunset inspired colour palette elegant high waisted trousers and tailored dresses styled with gorgeous two toned ribbon belts in bows that looked like they were inspired by the ribbon wrapped around the top of a safari pith helmet, the collection looked elegant and exotic.

There was some very strong colour blocking in the collection, particularly evident in the dresses.

The gorgeous copper and beautiful ink blue garments were paired with this delicious paisley type fabric.

Images courtesy of IVAN NAUDE and SAFW

Monday, March 29, 2010

fashion week day 2

Day two of fashion week was a little bit hectic for me as it was a Friday night and some after-partying was in order, so my posts and feedback are a bit behind. Plus my aims and aspirations of blogging from my blackberry were shattered when I realised that my images needed to be shot landscape instead of portrait in order for them to display the right way up if I emailed them to my blogger account.
Anyways, now I have some gorgeous images courtesy of IVAN NAUDE and SAFW from the shows on day one: Amanda Laid Cherry, Superella and Guillotine and images from the other shows I watched on day two and three.

Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe

Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe

Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe

Amanda Laird Cherry

Amanda Laird Cherry

Amanda Laird Cherry
Before I begin with my thoughts on the shows I watched on Friday night, I just want to put it out there that Lucilla and her team at SAFW are actually unbelievable. They managed to pull off a great 3 days of fashion without their headlining sponsor Sanlam (not sure if any of you have realised that it is not SSAFW anymore but just SAFW). This shows me that South African fashion will always have a home at SAFW, because this is obviously a passion project for them.

Back to day two and three…
Working a 9 – 5 job that requires to me to be in the office really interfered with my fashion – weeking. I missed the morning session shows: Non European, Bianca Warren, Dillon & Jada, Nabeela and Silver Spoon, as well as the afternoon shows Rubicon, Sies! Isabelle, Mantsho and Sober. I was quite devastated because I was quite curious to see the morning show designers as I am not familiar with any of their work and I really wanted to see Mantsho and Sies!Isabelle. I own a dress by Sies!Isabelle, which I absolutely adore and I have yet to get a chance to see her full runway show and from what I can see from the images I did miss out. The show looks as if it was beautiful, flirty and wearable with exposed contrast zips and bandage halter neck detailing. Next time, I’m going to have to take leave it appears…
Sies! Isabelle

Sies!Isabelle
I did manage to make it to the evening shows: Two, Chimera, RJKay, Karen Monk Klijnstra, Gugulam and Loxion Kulca by Olé Ledimo.
TWO AND CHIMERA
Two and Chimera’s show was nothing to write home about. I did like Chimera’s juxtaposition of heavy leather belts and bags with flirty light fabrics but that’s about all I can remember because that is all I jotted down.
GUGULAM, KAREN MONK KLIJNSTRA AND RJKAY
The shows that followed (except Gugulam) were all over the top, and not in a good way. There was too much going on, too many elements being brought together that compromised pieces that could have been quite beautiful. This was particularly evident in RJKay’s collection. Even drama needs balance.

RJKay
RJKay
LOXION KULCA
I really didn’t appreciate seeing 8 or so looks of ill-fitting underwear. I did quite like the looks I’ve upload, but on the whole, I am not sure I am convinced by the collection or Loxion Kulca’s direction. The women’s apparel was on a completely different tangent to the men’s.

Loxion Kulca

Loxion Kulca

Thursday, March 25, 2010

fashion week show 2 and 3

Its late. I am not really sure why I'm still up because I have in fact had a really long day. Most people in the fashion industry are quite jaded when it comes to fashion week. I for one hope to never get to that stage, and I hope to feel how I feel about fashion week today: excited because it is a time to be immersed in some culture of fashion for three days.
Please excuse that I don't have pictures loaded, but I wanted to load really good quality ones which I can probably only get later today so happy reading...
And on that note...
AMANDA LAIRD CHERRY
Amanda Laird Cherry's show was quite different from anything else I had seen before from her. It was lighter, but also heavier - if that makes any sense at all. Dominated by burnt corals (if there is such a colour) and retro teal, sheer aprons and side swept hair, leather (horse bridal) type head gear and light dresses, the collection reminded me in some way of the 50's housewife. I don't know if it was the sheer aprons or the leather (horse bridal) type head gear, but themes or rather feminist related commentary came through the collection for me. Perhaps I am attaching to much to what was a simple show with sheer aprons and leather head gear, but I found irony in looks such as the teal tiered mini dress worn with a sheer cream apron.
Someone described it as "Bridal bondage" in the post show discussions, so I take comfort that my interpretation might not be that far off. From what I could tell, the show told a narrative, starting with the 50's housewife in her sheer apron, muted retro colour confined by her head gear and invisible leash. A"Simone de Beauvoir" turning point was taken when the red coat dress came on stage followed immediately by a warrior like outfit with the sheer apron worn diagonally across the chest like some sort of shield. The story culminated in the last look where the only pair of pants are worn, accessorised with the leather head gear complete with leash and the model holding the leash attached to the head gear.
I really like the collection and it was really different watching a show with the intention of writing about it because you notice a lot more and pay attention. Creativity comes from somewhere so even if I'm wrong about my interpretation above, Amanda Laird Cherry was saying something...
GUILLOTINE AND SUPERELLA
Guillotine and Superella were the other two shows for the day. I am looking at my notebook and the first thing I wrote is " my goodness I love Lisa Jaffe!" All I can say about her collection is that it was fantastic and dark.
Some of Lisa Jaffe's (Guillotine) work has the same aesthetic that I so appreciate in Japanese designers work. She not only understands form and shape, but she manages to balance in a beautiful way creativity and wearability.
What I have always loved about Guillotine is that Lisa is very good and bringing in the right amount of contrast colour, be it a hint of lilac, or lemon yellow. At the start of the show, the models walked on and had light strands in their hair, which exemplifies what I just said... bringing out just the right amount of light or colour to make an impact or give character.
It is so far my favourite collection, but it is day one... I have a list of looks that I absolutely loved- like the jumpsuit, the dove grey and light salmon pink ensemble as well as the leather skirt which looked to me like a revival of silhouette that she has used before, so it is going to be a hard one to beat, because I already have a wish list...

fashion week show 1



I left the office in a mad rush to make it to Clive Rundle's store at The Firs for his show and it was the classic fashion week scenario of "hurry up and wait. Needless to say I'm glad they were running late I would not have wanted to miss the show at all.
I am a huge Clive Rundle fan and he is truly a creative genius who loves to explore a fabrics ability push it to its limits and create beauty out of the unusual. Great start to three days of South African fashion.
Sent via my BlackBerry from Vodacom - let your email find you!

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

magazines: the issue

cover of elle

Elle’s April 14th birthday issue looks fantastic. With a brand new cover and a general tone of innovation, freshness and fashion forward thinking, the issue is a beautiful collector’s edition, with gorgeous fashion editorials sitting in between really good and thought provoking words.

One of those thought provoking articles is the one written by Thando Pato that delves into the question whether covers with black women sell just as well as those with white women on. Through a comparative exploration into the international and local controversies surrounding this issue as well as the opinions of key players in our own media industry, Pato’s article does what it needs to in exploring the different opinions on the matter and creating a somewhat neutral argument. However, I did not close the magazine feeling neutral about the matter at all. In fact, the comments and statements that resonated the most with me were the ones that leaned towards: yes…putting a black woman on the cover of a traditionally white magazine will result in poor sales.

In the article Pato references the 2008 ‘Black Issue’ Italia Vogue to illustrate that a traditionally white publication with black editorial and cover can sell over and above normal sales figures. That is where I was lost…because I take issue with that issue of Vogue.

Instead of being moved by the black orientated editorial or the photographic excellence of Steven Meisel when I looked at the magazine in 2008 I was quite simply unimpressed. Not to bring up what has probably been discussed at length at dinner tables in 2008 already, but to me, the issue just amplified the ideology of “the other.”

Some may say that I am missing the point entirely and that the fact that the issue was so popular should be seen as great feat. Well… I say that the issue actually conveyed and brought to the fore that black beauty is viewed by the fashion world and popular culture in the context of “the other,” i.e. not white / not home, / not convention, hence its novelty.I had exactly the same issue with The Loeries the year they gave Festus Masekwameng the “most awarded black creative award”. Why was it necessary for The Loeries to acknowledge him separately for being talented? It felt to me as if they were saying: “you’re pretty good…for a black guy.”

So kudos to Elle - a traditionally white publication - for opening up the discussion in their magazine and for trying to reflect the society it finds itself in. Everyone wants to be reflected in the popular culture media they consume. I want to look at something and be able to see myself or someone or a concept that I can relate to. I see the pages of Elle profiling streetwear fashion - a lifestyle orientation that has been around for a minute here in SA - but has been snubbed by mainstream consumer publications and even fashion week (I have heard) and it's good to see that the tide is turning (is that the phrase?)...

Anyways, I enjoyed this issue thoroughly. It’s going to be one of those I don’t let anyone tear out…
xx

cover
Image from www.martini_pink.com
liya
smoking
Image from www.nytimes.com

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